As a young person in Manhattan, my view of the outdoors consisted of a concrete courtyard, yielding little sign of the changing seasons. My only marker of spring’s approach was the appearance of sprightly thin spears of asparagus at the corner Italian vegetable market.
Today, I enjoy a much better view of seasonal changes outside but my first sighting of green in spring is still the proud stalks of fresh asparagus that start to crowd the farmer’s market in April. While asparagus is technically available year-round, the grey bland stalks found at any other times of year in the grocery store are more reminiscent of bamboo than the tender green-grass flavors of spring asparagus.
To visit Europe in spring is to be bombarded by asparagus in every form, particularly white asparagus. It is viewed as a “rare” treasure only available for a short window of time so it is offered every day at almost every meal. After a week of asparagus specials, we were a bit exhausted, but that is the point.
I think it’s just wise seasonal protocol.
Following a farmer’s calendar, I should probably feel the same way about asparagus in late June as I do about root vegetables today. One more root, and I will not be able to eat another ground dweller until November. That’s the way it should be. To make an effort to eat only what is in season is to also accept that by the end of the season, you feel you couldn’t eat another bite until it appears in the market next year. To avoid vegetable exhaustion it is helpful to find different ways to prepare the season’s best.
Soup made from fresh leeks, spring asparagus and fresh tarragon is a great way to change the texture while enjoying the flavor. It’s also easy because it’s fast. Too much time on the stove and the asparagus loses its distinctive flavor and the clean sweet essence of tarragon will be lost.
A quick sauté of leeks and asparagus is covered for a few minutes to let the vegetables exude their juices. A good quality vegetable or chicken broth is added and, at the very end, chopped tarragon and a bit of honey to help accentuate the anise flavor in the herb. It is all whirred into a blender and either served hot or on warmer days, I enjoy a cold glass in the afternoon.
I drink a mug of soup throughout the day as I would imbibe a cup of tea only I find my soup much more filling and energizing.
The simplicity and smooth texture make it a good fit for my kids, too, as an afternoon snack served aside bread toasted with melted cheese. I’m also known to have a cup set at their place for dinner as a first course, particularly before a favorite meal. Once they polish off the soup, I bring out what they have been waiting for. The power of anticipation works every time.
While we are surrounded by the colors and swirling blossoms of Spring, we continue to enjoy our first green of the season. By June, we’ll likely be exhausted and ready to open our hearts to our next seasonal obsession.
- 1 lb fresh asparagus
- 4-5 Ramps or 2-3 leeks
- 2-3 Tablespoons olive oil
- 3½ cups best quality chicken or vegetable broth
- Large handful of tarragon leaves, roughly chopped
- ½ to 1 Tablespoon local honey
- Salt and pepper
- Trim the asparagus by cutting off rough ends. Usually about an inch. Roughly chop into about 1-inch pieces.
- Trim leeks by cutting off roots and removing green so you are left with just the white stalk. Slice in half lengthwise and rinse well under running water to remove any dirt. (Leeks can be very dirty.) Roughly chop leeks into ½-inch pieces.
- Heat oil in a large stock pot and add leeks. Saute for a few minutes until beginning to soften.
- Add asparagus and stir. Season with about 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. Stir then cover for about 10 minutes over low heat until asparagus starts to soften and juices exude from asparagus.
- Uncover and add broth. Simmer over medium-low heat for 10 minutes.
- Add tarragon, simmer for 3 more minutes. Stir in ½ Tablespoon honey and taste for desired sweetness. The goal is to have just a touch of sweetness, which I think helps accentuate the tarragon anise flavor. Honey can vary greatly in strength so taste before you add more.
- Remove from heat.
- Puree in a blender in batches. (Only fill blender half full and place a towel over the top as you blend. The heat causes the soup to expand and could escape a bit if blender is too full.)
- Season to taste with salt and pepper.
- Serve warm or cold.