“In like a lion and out like a lamb” is what we expect from March. This year it was a beast from beginning to end. With the onset of April, I am looking for something, anything, to help us switch gears and escape our winter rut. In a subtle attempt to mark a change, I walk past the ground sirloin I usually buy for the week for tacos or a quick Bolognese, and instead grab two pounds of organic ground lamb. I did not yet have a plan but was hopeful it would materialize in time for dinner.
In fact, it did. The resulting dish features familiar notes of winter spice combined with the fresh flavors of Spring lamb. Spring Lamb Pie is my attempt to encourage Mother Nature to finally release the milder days of Spring.
The inspiration is moussaka, a Greek version of shepherd’s pie, with layers of ground lamb and eggplant topped with a béchamel white sauce. I don’t want the effort of prepping eggplant, which can include peeling, slicing, salting and setting aside. I’ve left myself no time for dinner so this needs to be fast and indeed it is.
Ground lamb is browned in a cast iron skillet with softened onions, then garlic. It’s the seasoning here that marks a change for us. I use nutmeg and allspice in pies and sweets but not often in savory dishes. With their use here, I’m attempting to recreate the aromas of slow roasted meat we encountered in the amazing gastropubs of London when we visited in the fall. Nutmeg, allspice and mace bring me back to a small dining room lit by a wood burning fire with rain falling steadily outside a thick window pane. These pungent spices help temper lamb’s subtle gaminess, which could potentially be off-putting to unsuspecting younger palates.
While the meat browns, I stir together a quick white béchamel sauce, which merits a post of its own since a béchamel can be the foundation to an almost endless number of quick dinners. It consists only of melted butter and flour whisked together with milk then cooked over medium heat until thickened. It couldn’t be easier. For this dish, I stir in two beaten eggs and a handful of parmesan cheese.
The béchamel tops the seasoned lamb then the entire pan goes into the oven until bubbly, about 20 minutes. The eggy béchamel puffs up in the oven and turns golden. Peas from the freezer are heated and quickly stirred together with fresh pea shoots from the farmer’s market. Dinner is on the table.
As we look up from our plates the sun seems to peek out from behind the clouds and offer a glimmer of hope. The next day, it comes out in full force. I like to think it’s the Spring Lamb Pie but it is probably just time for a change. I don’t really care. I step outside and close my eyes to the sky. The sun’s rays warm my skin in a way I almost forgot it could.
- 2-4 Tablespoons canola oil
- 2 pounds ground lamb
- 1 medium onion, thinly sliced
- 2-3 garlic cloves, minced
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1 teaspoon mace (or nutmeg)
- 1 teaspoon allspice
- 1 Tablespoon tomato paste
- ½ cup canned or boxed crushed tomatoes
- ½ cup red wine (optional)
- 4 Tablespoons unsalted butter
- 4 Tablespoons flour
- 2 cups whole milk (whole milk makes a difference. Don't try this with skim)
- ½ teaspoon nutmeg
- ½ teaspoon salt
- ¼ cup grated parmesan cheese
- 2 eggs beaten
- Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
- Lightly slick a 12-inch cast iron pan with oil and heat over medium high heat.
- Add onions and sprinkle with a pinch of salt. Stir until beginning to soften.
- Add lamb and continue to stir and break up the meat until brown. Drain fat.
- Add garlic, stir and heat through for about 1 minute.
- Add salt, mace and allspice and stir until combined.
- If using wine (and I recommend you do) pour over spiced meat and bubble over high heat until reduced and liquid evaporates.
- Add tomatoes and tomato paste. Stir to combine and lower heat to medium high. Simmer until thickened.
- While meat sauce simmers, prepare the béchamel sauce.
- In a medium saucepan, melt butter over medium heat.
- Add flour and stir into the butter with a whisk to make a paste. Stir for about a minute.
- Pour in milk, nutmeg and salt, stir and let bubble softly over medium heat until sauce thickens, about 4-5 minutes.
- Once thickened, remove from heat and let cool for a few minutes. Then add parmesan cheese and beaten eggs, stir well to combine. Set aside.
- When meat sauce has thickened, use a spatula and spread meat across pan in an even layer. Pour béchamel over meat. Smooth with a spatula so meat is evenly covered. Sprinkle the top with a pinch of nutmeg.
- Place in the oven and bake until browned, about 20 minutes.